Henna Handover
Henna or Mehndi
Over the years, henna has acquired the global status of a cultural cosmetic. Thanks to Lawsonia inermis – the small shrub, responsible for leaving behind a blazing trail of orange red lacework patterns or intricate designs on the hands and feet. Poor women initially used henna decoration as ornament and its significance, myths and usages vary from place to place. Women in the west consider it as a fashion statement, paying no heed to the motifs or occasion. In countries like Morocco or India, henna is steeped in rituals and tradition that governs everyday life. Recorded history of this strongest natural colourant and one of the oldest documented cosmetics dates back to the Egyptian mummies whose fingers and toes were stained with henna prior to mummification. Ancient Egyptains are known to have used henna oil to sooth their muscles while women were adept in the art of dabbling with henna paste. In India, Mehndi is all about rituals and is deeply imbued in tradition. Henna, besides being decorative, softens the skin and imparts a cooling effect. It is applied to burns and used effectively in fevers. It counters the odour of the various condiments used in the kitchen.
Henna Recipe
Each artist has his own secret recipe for the henna mixture. Either fresh leaves are ground or else Mehndi powder is used to prepare the paste. Freshness of the powder can be ascertained by its olive green colour and fragrant smell. Finely sifted powder is essential for more intricate and lacy patterns. A number of ingredients are added to make the paste smooth, easy flowing and for the required colour texture. Some of the ingredients popularly used are lemon juice, coffee, tea, indigo, sugar, okra extract, tamarind, gum, shellac, fenugreek seeds, etc.
Henna powder is mixed with hot water and allowed to settle for some time (depending upon the room temperature, it may take from a few hours in warm temperature to more than a day in cooler climes) to gain consistency and to ensure that the henna may release the dye. To aid this process lemon / tamarind / vinegar is added to the henna paste. The more acidic the mixture, the darker the stain.
Another option is to mix henna powder to lemon juice and add hot tea or coffee to soften it further. Most artists love to add drops of henna oil to this paste, while others swear by cloves or tea or coffee. There is a long list of ingredients popularly used : lemon juice, tea, coffee, cloves, sugar, okra extract, tamarind, gum, shellac, fenugreek seeds, indigo, etc.
One may experiment with them until you discover a combination of materials and techniques that work best for you. Before the application the hands are washed clean (use hot water, soap, astringent if necessary). Some prefer to apply a little henna oil on the palm before working out the patterns on them. The professional woman display her skill by dipping her index finger into the fine paste and working out the filigree pattern. Amateurs require the need of a thin wire or matchstick or tooth pick or brush or cellophane bags with fine nozzle to navigate the pattern or design. For beginners it is best to begin in the middle with circular patterns and simply work your way out. One can also opt for stencils to apply the henna which makes the task all the more easier. Leave the paste for at least three hours. The longer the henna remains on the skin, the deeper and more permanent the colour. When the henna starts drying, it is moistened with a solution of sugar and lemon juice to keep the outline intact. Once the palm has acquired the desired colour after the paste dries up, scrape it and rub along with mustard oil or any body lotion. Never wash it off with water. Avoid contact with water for atleast a day after henna application and try to keep the palm warm. This ensures a longer life to the henna painted hand. Dyed hands should avoid contact with soap, which causes the colour to fade faster due to exfoliation. Henna on your palm should last at least for ten days and it can go up to a month if well cared for.
Originally written by Shaheen Perveen for Heal India, edited and distributed by DesiDeter.
